We have been working outside this week and thought we would provide an update on the greenhouse build progress. This greenhouse is being built over our 95 ton heat sink and is part of our geothermal heat sink greenhouse project. We are still a long ways off from having the the heat sink operational. You can see what we have accomplished in this picture.
Arch supports installed
Near the peak of the arches you can see a horizontal support. They are on all the arches except the two on the end, These supports will provide rigidity for the arches under heavy winds and snow loads. We don’t get lots of snow here in NW Missouri but we do generally see some every year. If we received lots of snow it would have been necessary to go with a different style of arch to support a heavy snow load. They’re held in place with a self tapping screw to keep them from moving.
Installing greenhouse hip boards
Both sides of our greenhouse will get a hip board and baseboard installed. You can see the partially installed hip board on one side of our greenhouse in the picture above.
In this picture you can see how we are securing the hip board to our arches. Notice the Tapcon screw installed through the top bracket. One bracket at each arch will get a Tapcon to prevent the hip board from moving. Each arch, with the exception of the two end arches, will have the hip board secured in this fashion. The two end arches will have a 3/8 inch hole drilled through the board and arch. A carriage bolt will be used to secure the hip board at each end.
After both sets hip boards are up we will install the base boards. Once those are on we will need to do a little back filling with dirt to help keep critters from getting inside.
After the base board work is complete the ends will need to be closed up and the door and door frames built. We will be framing in both ends with treated lumber that was reclaimed from our in the garden greenhouse. We are still sorting out the details of the end walls.
After the end walls are complete the grow boxes will be built and installed. They will be filled with sawdust and sand, mixed at 75 percent sawdust. We likely transplant seedlings into the grow boxes before pulling plastic.
The double layer of greenhouse plastic will be installed this fall once the temperature drops to around 60 degrees.
The greenhouse project got started on Monday and the greenhouse heat sink is completed. Our greenhouse heat sink is comprised of 120 yards of 3 inch screened rock. It is surrounded on four sides with 4 inches of styrofoam and is covered with 2 feet of soil. There are 6 feet of foam that insulate the rock, the heat sink, and the soil over the heat sink that is inside the greenhouse.
In this picture the foam is 4 inches thick and 4 feet tall. There is 6 inches of rock in the bottom of the hole and we have begun covered the first 10 lengths of the perforated drain tile. Three feet of rock will go over the top of these lengths of drain tile.
The second set of drain tiles
In this next picture there is three and a half feet of rock inside the foam and the second and final set of drain tiles are ready to be covered with rock.
Once covered with rock we covered the rock with a 3 mil barrier fabric that will allow water to pass through but will exclude the soil. This is important to prevent the rock from being plugged with dirt and rendering the heat sink useless.
Once all the barrier fabric is in place it gets covered with 2 feet of topsoil. The soil was compacted with the track hoe and then leveled in preparation for the greenhouse assembly.
The last two feet of foam
We had a small mishap and breakdown in communication. As a result we are going to have to put in the last bit of the Styrofoam with the aid of a trencher. In a future blog entry I will cover the lessons we learned during this process and the mistakes we made. Hopefully you can learn from us and not make a similar mistake.
Watch us build the greenhouse heat sink
So far there are 5 videos in this YouTube series and I expect to have two more before we begin assembly of the greenhouse. You can watch the videos of the heat sink build on my YouTube channel. Here is the first video in the series.
We are excited to finally have our start date for the geothermal heat sink greenhouse build. The heavy equipment should arrive tomorrow and the site preparation work beginning on Saturday. Before starting the project we have some trees that need to be removed to make room for the greenhouse. They will need to be removed to prevent shading or because they are within the footprint of the desired location.
Monday we should begin work on the actual heat sink portion of this build. The hole will be dug, our 125 yards of rock will be delivered, and the process of burying two layers of drain tile will begin. Here is the site of our future geothermal heat sink greenhouse.
Preparing the greenhouse site and heat sink
To prepare the site for the greenhouse we have hired a local guy. He is going to utilize a track hoe to push over several trees and use a bulldozer to push them all into a manageable pile. The trees will season throughout the year and then be cut into firewood this fall.
Once the trees are removed the 5 1/2 foot deep hole for the heat sink will be dug with the track hoe. The topsoil will be set to one side and eventually placed back over the top of our 125 yards of rock. The clay and any excess soil will be pushed out of the way and spread out over the yard. They dropped off the bulldozer tonight and the track hoe should arrive tomorrow.
Documentation of the Geothermal heat sink greenhouse build
We will be recording the build process on a couple different cameras. One will be camera tripod and setup to record the activity around the heat sink site. I’ll lug around another camera and try and explain the steps and show what we are doing. Those videos will be posted to our YouTube page during this process. Subscribe to our channel on YouTube to get notifications of any videos.
We are excited to be starting the planning process on a geothermal heat sink greenhouse build. We will build this geothermal heat sink greenhouse to allow us to grow our own food year round. It would be wonderful to be able to grow frost intolerant crops like tomatoes during the dead of our winters. Without question, we will be able to grow hardy and moderately hardy crops all year inside this greenhouse.
More details about our green house plans
For the heat sink we will use 48 inches of rock that will be placed under 24 inches of topsoil beneath the greenhouse. We will use a 4 inch thick Styrofoam insulator 6 feet tall around the perimeter of the rock. The foam board will prevent the heat held in the rocks from being drawn out into the cooler soil outside the foot print of the greenhouse.
During the day, the warm/hot air from the peak of the greenhouse will be drawn down through duct work and a fan and be pushed out near the bottom of the heat sink. The 4 inch pipe that is used below the ground will be perforated to allow the air to escape. The air will move up through the rock to a second set of pipes, transferring the heat from the air and into my thermal mass. The air will enter the second set of perforated pipes and be pushed into the greenhouse.
During the night when the green house temperature drops below that of the thermal mass heat sink the system will work in the opposite manner. Cool air from the green house will be pushed through the rock and pick up heat. As the air returns to the greenhouse it will be warmer, keeping the greenhouse temperatures warm through the night.
The high tunnel kit we selected
For our high tunnel kit we selected a 20 x 44 foot kit from Zimmerman’s High Tunnels. They use 14 gauge steel that is 2 3/8 inches in diameter. It is a little larger diameter than most kits we found while searching for kits. Zimmerman’s is a few hours drive from our home and we will be able to pick it up to avoid freight charges.
The drainage pipe we are using
For this project we will be using 4 inch corrugated drain pipe, often referred to as drain tile. All of the pipe that will be horizontal will be perforated to allow air to escape and enter the rock. Anything installed vertically will not be perforated to ensure the air makes it to our heat sink. This is what our 4 inch corrugated and perforated pipe will look like. We will buy it in 250 foot rolls for around $98
There will be two layers of this pipe, ten each, the will run the length of the greenhouse. Both will be buried within the rock 3 feet apart. One group will be 6 inches from the bottom, the second 6 inches from the top. The top and bottom layers will not be connected.
The pipe near the bottom of the rock heat sink will be connected to the fan that draws heat from top of the greenhouse. We intend to use a 55 gallon plastic barrel as a manifold to bundle all 10 of the pipes together. With the fan mounted on top of the barrel it will be able to push air through all 10 pipes.
The ten pipes 6 inches from the top of the heat sink are also perforated and will direct the air blown in from the bottom up and back out into the greenhouse. All of the pipe laid horizontally will be perforated.
Airflow pattern through the heat sink
Air will flow down to the bottom of the 10 perforated pipes at the bottom of the heat sink. The air will be pushed through the perforations and up through the rock to the second set of horizontal perforated pipes. The air enters through the perforations and is directed back up and into the greenhouse.
Where each pipe terminates inside of the rock heat sink we will place a cap designed for the the corrugated pipe. When we connect the perforated and non-perforated pipes we will use a an external connector designed specifically for the corrugated pipe. All unions will be wrapped in a tape intended for drain tile and to be buried.
How we came to decide on our greenhouse dimensions
As with all our gardening here, we will be utilizing the Mittleider Gardening Method in our geothermal heat sink greenhouse build. There will be 4 grow boxes inside this greenhouse that are 18 inches wide and 30 feet long. We want plenty of room to move and work in our greenhouse in additional to being able to do all our seedling production in the same place.
We have settled for an overall length of 44 feet. This will allow a 5 foot walkway at both ends of the grow boxes. At the far end of the greenhouse we will do our seedling production. We intend to build a 4 foot bench along one wall for seedling stuff and storage of gardening equipment. Ultimately there will be batteries here and a charge controller for the solar panels we want to install.
For the width we are going with 20 feet. It was tempting to go wider to add a 5th grow box, but that would have increased the final cost significantly. The added cost for the greenhouse itself wouldn’t have been horrible. But the additional gravel requirements combined with the other costs for excavation and materials would have significant. And I can grow a lot of food in just 4 thirty foot beds using the Mittleider gardening method.
Considering snow load and high winds
A twenty foot wide greenhouse is pretty strong and able to stand up well to wind and the weight of our Missouri snow. We don’t get much snow here so this allows us to save a little money because we don’t need W-trusses. If we were to go wider it would be smart to spend the extra money for W-trusses with our kit. W-trusses for the kit we selected would have been another $500.
While the heat sink and geothermal combined makes sense, we haven’t yet seen it work. We don’t yet know how it will truly work during our winters. If it doesn’t work and allow us to grow year round a larger system will have been a waste of money. We will start with a smaller system and see how it performs. If it works well and inexpensive to operate a larger unit that would allow us to sell to our local community might be a good business venture.
Removing trees before building
Before we start this project there will be several trees to remove. Doing this will prevent shading on the greenhouse and the root system from taking over the ground under the greenhouse. Removing trees close to the greenhouse will prevent a tree from falling on the greenhouse and damaging it.
There are about 5 trees that I want removed from the vicinity of the build site. Two of the trees are west of the site and will cast shadow on the greenhouse if left in place. One tree is massive, an old black locust, that could potentially drop limbs on our greenhouse. The roots from this tree could also end up under the greenhouse. We prefer to avoid the possibility of any of those problems and will remove the potential entirely.
There are a few additional trees that are to the north of this geothermal heat sink greenhouse site that I want removed. They don’t pose any immediate threat to the greenhouse, but I’d like to remove them now and ensure no trees will ever fall on the completed greenhouse and damage it. We will remove them now to avoid the possibility of tree fall damage entirely.
Goal to have the greenhouse off grid
After the greenhouse is completed and in operation we would like to start getting the greenhouse “off gird”. We will monitor the energy usage and design a solar system that will meet our needs. On the end of the greenhouse under the seedling tables we will build an enclosure for the charge controller and batteries.
Through rain collection off our nearby home into a cistern we will be able to water our greenhouse. We have enough annual rainfall that we can easily collect enough water for our needs. Ultimately we want to use an automated sprinkler system for a lawn to water the 4 grow boxes inside our greenhouse.
Goals for monitoring the geothermal heat sink greenhouse build
A secondary goal for this geothermal heat sink greenhouse, is the ability to wirelessly monitor the temperatures of the greenhouse,. Additionally, outside the greenhouse and the ground temperatures of the heat sink. Ultimately allowing others to view current temps and historical data would be nice.
I’ve not yet researched the options of products that will allow this. We do plan on placing a piece of PVC during the build that would allow a temperature probe to be dropped into the heat sink material. The PVC will be relatively inexpensive, we may add two to allow temperatures to me monitored at the top and bottom of the heat sink rock.
Almost ready to start excavation
We have all the materials except the styrofoam for the heat sink on hand. As soon as we can schedule the delivery of the 125 yards of rock we can start the dirt work, weather permitting. Our goal is to have the heat sink portion completed by the end of February. The greenhouse portion we hope to have completed and ready for seedlings mid March.
We will be documenting this project with photos and video, be sure to check back for updates of our progress.
We know the owners of this geothermal greenhouse located in NW Missouri and I get to go over and poke my head inside from time. It seemed like a terrific idea and I was excited to even go watch it going up.
Yesterday we went by while we in the area to peek inside the geothermal greenhouse. I was amazed with the progress of the plants inside. These tomatoes, 5 different varieties if I remember correctly, were planted back in the first week of April. They’re easily 3 times the size of my own tomatoes that are growing outdoors.
About this greenhouse
This greenhouse is a Mittleider design as seen in the Mittleider Gardening Course book.
Recently we made changes to the in garden greenhouse. Arguable some of these changes are improvements. They were all minor additions that didn’t add much cost to the project. Ideally these changes would have been made and implemented during the build. If you are considering building this I’d highly suggest altering your build plans to include these changes.
During our time with the Mittleider in garden greenhouse I’ve changed a few things about it and added my own personalized touches to it. I’ve outlined these things in this little video we shot today.
We built the in garden greenhouse from the instructions provided in the Mittleider Gardening Course book. We don’t provide a supplemental heat source to it, but are able to increase our growing season by about 6 to 8 weeks. It allows us to start planting hardy plants 3-4 weeks before our average last frost of the year.
After the first frost of the year it also allows us to continue growing and protecting our vegetables by simply closing it up and protecting the plants from the cold. On a sunny day we can easily see temperatures inside the greenhouse rise 30 degrees above the outside temperatures.
Watch our video to see the changes we made
Our quest to be self reliant and grow a healthy garden