When it comes to juicing tomatoes, our Cabela’s tomato juicer attachment is a real time saver. Yes, it will juice other things such as grapes as well, but we use it almost exclusively for tomatoes.
Yesterday we had another small harvest, around 30 pounds, of tomatoes that needed put up. We setup the grinder, foot control and connected the tomato juicer attachment and got to work. If you have a large amount of tomatoes to do each year this is the only way to go.
The only place I’ve found this juicer attachment is at Cabela’s. Our juicer is an older model and doesn’t include a splash guard. You can see our improvised one made from foil in this picture below.
The newer models of the tomato juicer attachment will run you around $100 at Cabela’s and is designed to be mounted to their grinder. It is a big investment, but it saves a lot of time on large jobs. We already owned a grinder so it was an easy decision when we can put up 200 pounds or more of tomatoes annually.
What if you wont be doing large batches?
If you are going to juice tomatoes on a much smaller scale then an old fashioned food mill will work. It is time consuming but is much cheaper. There are hand crank operated juicers out there work well but cost more money than the food mill. One such product is the Weston strainer and sauce maker for around 60 dollars.
Foot control switch for the grinder
The first year we ran the grinder manually by turning the switch on and off by hand. It works but can make a real mess at the end of the day.
One day while browsing the camping and hunting section in a BassPro Shop I noticed a foot control switch. It is designed to power the grinder while your foot is depressing the switch. As soon as your foot comes off the switch the grinder stops. Amazing! It was a solution to our messy grinder and we decided to buy it and try it out.
It works wonderfully and powers the grinder so long as your foot is on the switch. As soon as you release the switch the grinder powers off. No more messy switches and it gives us the ability to shut down quickly if something goes wrong.
It is carried at BassPro and Cabela’s, with the former having the best price if you have one of their stores near you. Amazon had the best price by a few pennies and offers from shipping to Amazon Prime members.
Watch the tomato juicer attachment in action
We made a short video of our grinder attachment making juice. You can watch the video below.
If you grow seedlings, and you should, you too can have seedling success through sterilized soil. That sounds pretty serious but it is actually pretty simple. This process is only for starting seedlings. To do an entire garden simply would not be practical.
By sterilizing the soil where you start your seedlings you accomplish three things. Any diseases dormant in the soil from previous crops will be destroyed. If there are insects or their eggs in the soil this process will kill them. Finally, any weed or unwanted seeds will be prevented from ever germinating.
Growing seedlings in sterile soil helps ensure the plants are healthy and improves your chances of success in the garden.
How to sterilize your soil
The process of sterilizing your soil for the purpose involves a few cookie sheets and your oven. Preheat your oven to 250 degrees. Place your soil on the cookie sheet. The soil should be 1/2 to 1 inch deep on the cookie sheet and the soil level.
Once the oven is preheated place soil filled cookie sheets in the oven and bake for 45 minutes. Remove the cookie sheets and thoroughly mix the soil on the cookie sheet. re-level the soil and place it back in the oven and bake for an additional 45 minutes.
Once the soil has baked at 250 for a total of an one and a half hours it will need to cool before being used. You can put it into the containers where you will place your seeds or into a container with a lid to be used later.
An alternative to sterilizing soil
Another alternative to sterilizing soil for starting seedlings is to use a custom growing medium, Here in our garden we chose to start all our seedlings in sawdust and sand. It is nearly pH neutral and won’t contain any disease.
Watch the video on how to sterilize soil for starting seedlings
For those of you who are visual learners like me consider this video that covers the subject.
How does Mittleider weekly feed compare to similar products?
Recently I got to thinking, how does the Mittleider weekly feed compare to similar products that are marketed for gardeners? I made a note to check the garden section the next time I went to Walmart to see how they compared. Lets talk about what I learned and why the weekly feed is superior.
For this comparison I am going to use three MiracleGro products and Oscomote. The three MiracleGro products are Liquafeed, and their Potting Mix.
Mittleider weekly feed expected analysis after mixing
After we mix our weekly feed for the garden we can expect the following analysis assuming the NPK came from triple 16 fertilizer. Those percentages below would change depending on your NPK percentages. The following percentages come from the instruction sheet that comes with the packets of Mittleider Magic Micro-Mix nutrients:
Plant nutrient Percentage
N – Nitrogen 13.000
P – Phosphate 13.000
K – Potash 13.000
Mg – MgSO4 1.000
B – Sodium Borate 0.050
Mn- Manganese Sulfate 0.120
Zn -Zinc Sulfate or Sucrate 0.300
Fe -Iron Sulfate or Sequestrene 0.030
Cu – Copper Sulfate 0.030
Ca – Calcium 0.700
S – Sulfur 3.000
Cl – Chloride 2.000
Mo – Sodium Molybdate 0.015
Osmocote expected analysis
Here are some pictures that show the analysis of the Osmocote. The percentages are good for N,P and K but that is all that it includes. Osmocote is missing 10 of the nutrients that are provided in the weekly feed. If you calculate the cost of this product just to use it as a standard fertilizer its going to be very expensive. I can buy 50 pounds of fertilizer for one one and a half containers of this product would cost.
Guaranteed analysis of the Liquafeed
The expected analysis of the Liquafeed is Nitrogen 12, Phosphate 9, Potash 6, Manganese 0.05 and Zinc 0.05. It only contains 5 of the 13 nutrients the plants need us to provide. It contains no calcium which aides the plant in taking up those it does provide.
The expected analysis of the MiracleGro potting mix
The potting mix is another one that contains only the NPK. The percentages are Nitrogen 21, Phosphate 11 and Potash 16. People use this and grow container gardens in it.
The expected analysis of MiracleGro Shake’n Feed
In the Shake n Feed I found the closest results to the weekly feed: Nitrogen 9, Phosphate 4, Potash 12, Calcium 3.5, Magnesium 1.4, Sulfur 7, Copper 0.05, Iron 9, Manganese 0.35 and Zinc 0.1.
Of all the products I compared to the weekly feed the Shake’n Feed comes the closest to having the 13 nutrients found in the weekly feed. Unfortunately it lacks three nutrients.
Rock dust guaranteed analysis
The data I found for the rock dust was derived from volcanic rock. Other forms of rock may produce a different analysis. Also, the phosphate shown in the analysis is Phosphoric Acid. Phosphoric acid 13, Potash 11, Calcium 1.23, Magnesium 1.74, Iron 0.8465, and Sodium 1.20.
Side by side analysis comparison
Here is a simple spreadsheet showing the products side by side to make it easier to see how they compare.
So what is the Mittleider Gardening Method, who created it and how is it different? The Mittleider gardening method is a complete system that was developed to allow any gardener to grow a healthy garden in any climate and type of soil. It is a system that ensures the plants have all 16 nutrients they require. Those nutrients are added on a weekly basis. It was developed to be easy and inexpensive for anyone in any part of the world.
It is a system that was named after the man who developed it, Dr. Jacob Mittleider. It allows the gardener to combine the best parts of growing in soil with the results of hydroponic gardening. It allows us to get results similar to hydroponic gardeners but without the massive costs. The Mittleider garden is known as the poor mans hydroponics system.
Dr. Jacob R Mittleider
Jacob Mittleider perfected this system over the course of 43 years to allow gardeners to maximize the use of their resources, space and even their time. The amount plants are large in a Mittleider garden because the crops are grown close together and through nourishing the plants with natural minerals. No special or expensive equipment is needed to apply the nutrients!
Six laws of plant growth
Jacob Mittleider defined the six laws of plant growth. These scientific laws of plant growth are non-nonnegotiable yet very few gardeners follow or fully understand them. If the gardener can figure out these 6 laws of plant growth and implement them in their Mittleider garden they will see a bountiful harvest. Ignore just one of these six laws of plant growth and your garden could be a total loss.
Mittleider gardens provide all the nutrients plants require
Because all the required nutrients are provided on a weekly basis a Mittleider garden can be grown in any soil, even sand and sawdust! Traditional gardening methods provide very few of the required 16 nutrients. When you provide all the nutrients necessary your plants will grow large, taste better and resist disease far better than an underfed plant. Regardless of how nutrient poor your soil may be, you can grow a Mittleider garden.
The first three nutrients the plant is able to provide its self with access to the air. Those three airborne nutrients are :
Next comes the primary nutrients. These three macro nutrients are:
The secondary nutrients are sometimes used in traditional gardens. Of the three secondary nutrients magnesium is often used for tomatoes. The three secondary nutrients are:
The last of the nutrients needed by all plants are known as the micro-nutrients or as the trace elements. There are 7 of them:
Mittlieder Gardening Method maximizes garden space
To maximize the available garden space, Dr. Jacob Mittleider began to grow vertically. For example, tomatoes can be grown a mere 9 inches apart when utilizing the Mittleider method and grown vertically under t-posts or a frames. That is 13 tomato plants being grown in one row that is merely 10 feet long!
When grown vertically a 170 pound test, or greater, baling twine is used to direct the tomato plants to grow vertically. The twine is wrapped around the plant as it grows. Every other tomato is trained up the twine in different directions towards the top of structure to a heavy gauge wire. If the gardener stands at one end of the row and looks toward the other they would see a “V” shape as shown in the picture below.
While the plants grow upwards they get further apart allowing them all access to sunlight and the air. Air and light are laws 1 and 3 of the six laws of plant growth. The gardener will prune the tomatoes or other vertical crop as they grow. As a result of pruning the plants are all able to get access to sunlight and air as they grow towards the top.
Growing vertically such crop as crooked neck squash keeps you from tripping on the vines and breaking plants. Going vertical makes weed control such much easier. Pruning, visual inspections for disease and insects and even harvesting is such much easier with crops grown vertically.
Use less water and help control weeds with the Mittleider gardening method
Watering a Mittleider garden soil bed is easy and uses less water than a traditional garden. A Mittleider soil bed is raised to permit good drainage. It has ridges to contain the water inside a 12 inch wide area. Because the water is only given to the plants in a narrow row, less water is used. When the water is contained inside the grow bed ridges no water gets into the isles to encourage weed growth. As a result of watering a narrow row there is far less water used as compared to traditional gardening methods.
Where can you learn more about the Mittleider gardening method
James (Jim) Kennard now runs the Food For Everyone foundation and maintains the website. You can learn more about the history of the Mittleider Gardening Method and even order the book from the Grow Food website. Jim and Araksya run a Mittleider group on Facebook. For those who like forums to share and search different topics relating to a Mittleider garden try the Mittleider Gardening Forums.
If you’re interested in trying out the Mittleider method you can even download the first 7 lessons in a digital format from the Mittleider Gardening Course Book for FREE. Those lessons cover everything you need to know to grow a Mittleider garden in your own soil.
Can you take classes on Mittleider gardening method?
Indeed you can. The Food for Everyone Foundation offers week long classes each year in Missouri and Idaho. These Mittleider Training Courses (MTC) are described as:
“…the Mittleider Training Course (MTC) is a one-week intensive immersion experience in this amazing system of growing, and for those who experience it their paradigm is forever changed. They KNOW how to grow a highly successful garden and they also have the confidence to assist, teach, and demonstrate success to others.”
For the visual learners who use YouTube
Finally, for the visual learners you can follow us on YouTube. We are still learning how to do the whole video thing so please be patient with us.
Knowing how many seedlings you need when planning your Mittleider garden can be difficult to figure out. Tools like the Mittleider garden planning detail sheet is invaluable in helping the gardener calculate how many seedlings will be needed. Certainly a simple calculator would make the process easier as well.
You can find a copy of the garden planning detail sheet inside the Mittleider Gardening Course book. A digital copy of it is available for free in the files section of the Mittleider Facebook group. We choose to use the garden planning detail sheet as a spreadsheet to make the process a little easier.
How we use the garden planning detail sheet
First we determine how many feet of soil beds and grow boxes we need to fill. Once that is done we decide how many feet of each crop we need to plant. Because we like to use the spreadsheet version of the garden planning details sheet, we started a spreadsheet like the one below.
The hardiness, spacing and number of columns comes from the garden planning detail sheet. The total feet is how much of the bed we want for a specific crop. It was determined by how much of each particular plant we want to grow based upon our need and the available room in our garden.
The seedling number is determined by multiplying the number of feet times 12 to get the number of inches. Take that number and divide by the number in the spacing column. As a reminder, that comes from the garden planning detail sheet. Take that number and multiply it by the number of rows. This will tell you the total number of seedlings you will need for the allotted space in your soil bed or grow box.
For the example given above, I will need 32 red beet seedlings to fill 3 feet of our soil bed. The “+ 10” portion I will discuss next.
Always plant extra seeds
Regardless of where your seeds come from there isn’t going to be a consistent 100 percent germination rate. Each time seeds are planted for seedlings you will need to plant extra to make up for those which fail to germinate.
Seeds bought from a reputable company will average as much as 85 percent germination rate. What that in mind we can plant an extra 15-20 percent and should have enough seedlings to fill our allotted garden space.
Another tip I might like to point out here, in those seeds that do germinate there will be seedlings that fail to thrive or just look weak. Those seedlings should never make it into your garden.
To help ensure only our strongest seedlings make it into the garden we plant an extra 10 percent of seeds. That makes a total of 30 percent extra seeds being planted. In most cases this will produce adequate enough seedlings to cover failure to germinate and the weak seedlings.
Because of the extra seeds planted we have plenty of healthy seedlings to fill the soil beds in our garden.
Planning your Mittleider garden video
For the gardeners who are visual learners, I’ve made this video and uploaded it to our YouTube channel.
Our quest to be self reliant and grow a healthy garden